Techno Train

The English Channel has served us well. With the insignificant exception of a handful of disoriented Romans, some Norman bastard in a longboat and a few unhealthy rats in the 17th century, it has pretty much kept out most unwanted guests and annoyances.

In recent times, it has even served as a natural barrier against the aural scourge that is Euro Pop, leaving our continental cousins' shameful taste for formulaic disco electronica outside our front door.

Unfortunately for me, I am no longer on the safe side of the sound barrier. I am on the slow train from Timisoara to Sibiu in Romania and all my own past musical sins have come back to haunt me in the shape of my current train carriage companions.

Sitting diagonally opposite me in an 8-seat compartment, two frisky young Romanian girls are canoodling openly. Their hands are roaming and fumbling so wildly that I start to get my wallet out, convinced that this cannot be for free. Very rapidly, though, my surprise turns to annoyance. It is not their sexuality that is disturbing me, however, but rather their taste in music.

They each have an earphone connected to a 1980s Sony Walkman cassette player (!) and the aural distortion (for music this is not) being played at full volume would incite poor Vincent Van Gogh to slice off his other ear. Every single song that I am forced to endure sounds like a handful of medium-sized ball bearings bouncing around a tumble dryer on its highest spin cycle, with the occasional deep rumbling sound of a wild goose passing wind. That this music is clearly putting them in the mood for some jiggery-pokery is beyond comprehension.

I stand up to go to the toilets in order to relieve my poor ears as well as my bladder, only to return thirty short seconds later, with my face ashen. For the sake of public decency, I will refrain from relating in graphic detail the horrors that have just confronted me, suffice to say that Timisoara's only Indian restaurant must have done a roaring trade last night.

With sight, smell and hearing annihilated, I attempt to protect my two remaining senses by simultaneously stroking my moleskin coat and eating a Kinder Bueno. So much for a peaceful scenic train journey through Romania's heartland.

But my luck changes within ten minutes. The train pulls into a station and the girls get off, still joined at the hips, lips and various other body parts. I swear I can see steam rising from their clothes as they jump off the train and head for the nearest barn.

As the immaculately dressed ticket inspector enters the compartment to check my ticket, he spots my guidebook and smiles at me. "You are alone now until Sibiu," he tells me in perfect English "enjoy the beautiful views."

And he is not wrong. Calm has returned to my world, and the scenery is also changing. The monotonous farming countryside dotted with power stations and disused factories has given way to the rugged mountains and lush forests of the Transylvanian Alps.

I am entering Dracula country.